The historic mail-order catalog that inspired Jerry’s “puffy shirt” in ‘Seinfeld’ now has a documentary feature titled All Man, directed by Bryan Darling and Jesse Finley Reed. The film follows the rise and eventual fall of the catalog from the 1970s to the mid-00s, as ex-military turned entrepreneur Gene Burkard created a business that revolutionized the fashion industry.
After initially introducing the “jock sock” into the market, Burkard went on to launch International Male. The catalog became a hit thanks to unabashedly outlandish and vibrant men’s clothing modeled by attractive hunks. As Simon Doonan, a fashion commentator, points out in the documentary, International Male reshaped the appeal of masculinity for both gays and heterosexuals. By breaking through the confines of normative clothing, the catalog displayed stylish men clad in hot pants, crop tops, thongs, and other fashion-forward looks in eye-catching color schemes and patterns, ranging from coral and lime to purple zebra stripes, and predicted what today we know as Instagram lifestyle culture. The company offered an exciting and coded fantasy outlet for gay men.
Narrated by Matt Bomer, All Man documents the art of fashion and the rise of International Male, as well as how they broke down barriers and captivated society. Nevertheless, the documentary dives into the dark side of paradise, revealing the devastating effects that diseases, such as AIDS, had on employees and customers. The lack of diversity among the catalog models is also mentioned.
All Man is not the most creative or innovative documentary, as it lacks in artistic expression, instead opting for a straight-forward approach. However, the film delivers an insightful and evocative account of the reconfiguration of masculinity, and the impact International Male had on fashion and society. All Man: The International Male Story is a documentary rated as not yet rated. It runs for approximately 1 hour and 23 minutes and is available for rent or purchase on most major platforms.
