CNN
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After the conclusion of the Fall-Winter 2023 fashion shows, it has become evident that one trend overshadowed all others: the lack of representation of plus-size models on the runways.
Across fashion capitals like New York, London, Milan, and Paris, plus-size models were noticeably missing. This is happening at a time when there are several prescription appetite suppressant medications available, and the topic of weight loss is gaining significant attention.
Recently, injectable medications like Wegovy and Ozempic, both containing semaglutide, an appetite suppressant, have garnered attention. Celebrities like Elon Musk and comedian Chelsea Handler have even mentioned using these medications. However, amid this rise in weight loss treatments, the fashion industry seems to be retreating from its progress in inclusivity.
For fashion commentators and advocates for diversity, this backward trend is deeply concerning. The impact is not limited to the fashion industry but also reflects a societal desire for a size-zero body that can now be achieved with a prescription.
While there have been some positive steps towards inclusivity in recent years, the Fall-Winter 2023 runways showcased a significant absence of curve bodies on the catwalks. Designers who had previously featured diverse body types seemed to have taken a step back in their casting choices.
When contacted for comments, Fendi, Valentino, and Erdem, the brands mentioned in the article, did not offer a response or declined to comment.
The statistics support the concerns raised by commentators and advocates. Data from fashion search engine Tagwalk reveals a 24% decrease in the number of mid and plus-size models compared to the previous season. Similarly, a size inclusivity report by Vogue Business shows that 95.6% of all looks in the Fall-Winter 2023 shows were in a size US 0-4, despite the fact that 68% of American women wear a size US 14 or above.
Mina White, an IMG model agent representing plus-size and curve supermodels, described the lack of inclusivity as a “definitive backslide.” She expressed frustration with designers who previously embraced diverse bodies but failed to continue the same representation on their runways.
The issue goes beyond the fashion industry. It reflects societal attitudes towards beauty and body standards. The responsibility to change this narrative lies not only with the designers but also with industry organizations, influencers, and editors.
It is essential for the industry to normalize different body types and promote inclusivity. Only then can we challenge the narrow beauty standards that have persisted for so long.
While there is still a long way to go, some smaller brands have taken steps in the right direction by featuring size-diverse models on their runways. It is important for larger fashion houses to follow suit and take responsibility for driving change.
There were a few instances where mid- and plus-size models were cast by certain brands. However, the overall trend highlighted a lack of commitment to inclusivity.
The use of sample sizes in the fashion industry is a major hurdle in casting diverse body types. Designers prioritize a single body type to ensure interchangeability during the casting process and save time and money. However, this practice limits the representation of diverse body sizes on the runway.
Mina White, the model agent, has been advocating for change, but she faces resistance from brands who consider it a financial burden to create larger samples. According to her, this shows a lack of understanding and education within the industry.
It is disheartening for plus-size consumers to witness brands allocating resources for custom pieces for celebrities while claiming a lack of resources for inclusive runway samples.
The need for change extends beyond designers and includes the responsibility of larger industry organizations and influential figures to promote inclusivity and diversity in fashion.
Progress has been slow, but some positive steps have been taken in terms of representation in fashion campaigns and editorials. However, it is crucial for designers to create clothes for diverse body types and ensure their presence on the runway.
In a letter from the editor of British Vogue, the magazine commended models like Jill Kortleve, Paloma Elsesser, and Precious Lee for their powerful impact on the industry and their commitment to challenging traditional beauty standards.
The conversation around body diversity and inclusivity needs to continue, and the fashion industry must adopt a more inclusive and accepting vision of beauty.
It is crucial for fashion brands, industry organizations, influencers, and editors to work together to promote diversity and inclusivity in the industry. This can be achieved by challenging traditional beauty standards and normalizing different body types.
Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, who featured diverse models in their Fall-Winter 2023 collection, emphasized the importance of inclusivity in their show notes. They stated that everybody should be invited and celebrated, highlighting the need for the fashion industry to adopt a more inclusive mindset.
