CNN
—
At the bottom of a windswept hill, there is a small wooden hut with smoke rising from its chimney. Inside, a large iron cauldron bubbles with a mixture of mountain barley and wild hops, creating a sweet, sour, and cloudy ale called “aludi”.
Every year, a group of men gathers around the cauldron in this hut as part of their unofficial brotherhood. They elect a shulta who oversees the process, which is a sacred preparation for the upcoming festival.
This special brew, aludi, marks the beginning of Atnigenoba, a two-week festival in Tusheti. The festival is filled with paganistic traditions, including ram sacrifices, shrine worship, folk dancing, and fiercely competitive horse racing.
Tusheti is a remote and wild region located in the mountains between Georgia, Chechnya, and Dagestan. It is only accessible via a narrow gravel road that climbs 10,000 feet above the gorges below.
Situated on the edge of Europe, Tusheti is a hidden treasure, known for its untamed beauty.
The region experiences heavy snowfall during the long winters, making it accessible for only about 4-5 months of the year. However, it is a paradise for hikers who want to explore new territory.
Tusheti is known for its breathtaking landscape and rich folk traditions, particularly in the realm of art. The region has a strong history of shepherding, resulting in the production of wool textiles, including knitted house booties and intricate carpets with bold geometric patterns.
By October, only a few locals remain in Tusheti as they prepare for a long and harsh winter. These few individuals become fully isolated from the outside world, marooned in the wilderness. One such individual is Irakli Khvedaguridze, an 80-year-old licensed doctor who relies on his wits, horse, and homemade skis to provide medical services throughout the year.
Before the construction of the road to Tusheti, locals had to travel on foot or horseback, making a mass exodus from the region every fall. This tradition continues to this day, as shepherds lead their flocks of tens of thousands of sheep to the lowlands for grazing during the winter months and then return to their homeland in the spring.
Shepherding is not just a source of income for Tushetian men; it is also a way for them to connect with their land and heritage. As more and more Tushetians embrace modern opportunities in cities like Tbilisi, traditional trades like shepherding have become a matter of pride.
The heart of the region is Omalo, a village crowned by the Keselo Fortress. Omalo is surrounded by meadows dotted with horses, cozy guest houses, and the occasional rooster. It serves as the gateway to Tusheti and is a starting point for the famous multi-day trek from Omalo to Shatili, a fortified medieval village in the neighboring region of Khevsureti.
Another village worth mentioning is Dartlo, located in the Pirikiti Valley. Dartlo is known for its defense towers and well-preserved stone houses. The village is also home to ancient church ruins and a unique 15th-century courthouse, resembling Scotland’s prehistoric Ring of Brodgar.
In the village of Shenako, St. George’s Church stands tall, overlooking the rolling green pastures. This church stands out among the numerous stone shrines in the region and serves as a testament to Tushetian culture.
In addition to its natural and cultural landmarks, Tusheti is known for its unique traditions and superstitions. Stone shrines, known as khati, and sacred spaces, known as salotsavi, are scattered throughout the region. These shrines, adorned with animal skulls and horns, hold great significance for the locals.
The people of Tusheti embrace a mix of Orthodox Christian and local pagan traditions, with a particular focus on honoring the departed. One such holiday is Mariamoba, which takes place in August and is dedicated to both Saint Mary and deceased loved ones. During this holiday, tables are set for the departed, paying tribute to them.
Another significant occasion is Mzebudoba, celebrated in December. This holiday marks the solstice and the quietude of winter, leading into a fertile spring. Tushetians prepare ritual cakes and breads, such as kada and machkati, as offerings to gods, saints, and ancestors. They also place a dish of khatvisi (a traditional shepherd’s dish) and a chalice of aludi in the window to catch the sun’s first rays.
One of the local dishes in Tusheti is khinkali, a type of dumpling filled with minced sheep meat. The region’s cuisine also features dairy products, warming soups, hearty meats, and buttery breads stuffed with cheese or potatoes. Local guest houses are known for serving these traditional dishes to travelers.
In Guesthouse Gere, located in Omalo, two women are hard at work preparing khinkali dumplings. Despite the cold temperatures, they work up a sweat as they roll out the dough and fill it with freshly minced sheep’s meat. These dumplings are then boiled and served by the dozen.
Other Tushetian culinary specialties include kotori (a version of khachapuri with tangy cheese curds and butter), khavtisi (a boiled curd and butter dish), and guda (a type of aged cheese). Shepherds also enjoy khaghi, a type of Tushetian jerky made from meticulously brined and sun-dried meat.
While Georgia is known for its wine, beer is a novelty in Tusheti. The local beer called aludi is brewed from mountain barley and wild hops, resulting in a delightfully sour and sweet flavor. Aludi holds great cultural significance and is present in various rituals, holidays, and festivals. Another popular beverage is kondaris chai, a local tea brewed from wild thyme or summer savory.
